G'day! You've just had a ripper of a hot shower, but now your bathroom is a proper steam room. The mirror is fogged up, the walls are dripping, and you just know that manky black mould is planning its next move. It's a fair dinkum nightmare, but it's one that's easily fixed with a bit of decent ventilation.

While a plain old exhaust fan does the job, the smart, all-in-one solution for a modern reno is the bathroom exhaust fan with light.

It’s exactly what it says on the tin, mate. It’s a single ceiling unit that combines your main bathroom light and your extraction fan into one schmick, clean-looking fixture. Instead of having a separate light and a noisy fan grill cluttering up your ceiling, this combo does both jobs at once.

The Ripper Benefits: Why Bother Combining Them?

Why bother combining them? The advantages are huge for an Aussie reno.

• Mould is Your Mortal Enemy: This is the big one. Our homes can get pretty humid, and a bathroom is ground zero for mould. A good exhaust fan sucks that steam (moisture) straight out of the room before it can settle on your walls and ceiling.
• Saves Ceiling Space: It's a clean, minimalist look. One hole, one fixture. It makes your ceiling look less cluttered, which is a massive win in a small bathroom or ensuite.
• It's Just Convenient: The lighting and fan are often wired to the same switch bank, making it dead easy to use.
• It's the 2-in-1 (or even 3-in-1!): This is where it gets even better. The most popular version in Australia isn't just a 2-in-1. It's the legendary 3-in-1 Bathroom Heater, which includes the exhaust fan, the light, and those glorious instant-heat lamps for winter.

What to Look For (So You Don't Get a Dud)

Before you grab one, have a squiz at the specs:

• Extraction Rate (m³/hr): This is the most important bit. It's a measure of how much air it can suck out. A tiny fan in a big bathroom won't do bugger all. You need to match the extraction rate to the size of your bathroom.
• Light Type: Go for a modern unit with an integrated LED light. They're way more energy-efficient and last for yonks, so you're not climbing a ladder to change a globe.
• Noise Level (dB): Some fans sound like a 747 taking off. Check the decibel (dB) rating. A lower number means a quieter, more relaxing bathroom.
• IP Rating: Any fitting going into a wet area needs to be safe. Your installer will know the rules, but make sure the unit is properly rated for bathroom use.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, let's get dead serious for a sec, because this is the most important part of the whole article. You cannot install a bathroom exhaust fan with light yourself.

This is not a "have a go" weekend job. You're working with 240V mains power, in a designated wet area, and it often involves cutting into the ceiling and running new ducting.

In Australia, this is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the unit is installed safely, wired correctly according to strict bathroom zoning rules, and properly ducted to the outside (not just into your roof space!).

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed professional knows that a good, quiet fan that actually clears the steam relies on using a quality, trade-grade unit. They won't risk their reputation on a cheap, noisy fan that'll conk out after one winter. They source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got a massive range of high-performance bathroom exhaust fan with light combos, including the popular 3-in-1 models, from Australia's most trusted brands. Plus, they have all the compliant switches, ducting, and wiring a pro needs to do the job right. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Let's be honest, there's nothing worse than stepping out of a steaming hot shower on a frosty winter morning, only to be hit by air so cold it feels like a slap in the face. You do the frantic towel dance, shivering away. Or, just as bad, you have a shower in summer, and the whole room turns into a foggy, dripping mess that you can't see your hand in front of.

It's a classic Aussie bathroom drama. But thankfully, there's a fair dinkum brilliant, all-in-one solution that's been a staple in our renos for donkey's years: the bathroom exhaust fan with light and heater.

What's the Go with This 3-in-1 Unit?

As the name suggests, this is the ultimate multi-tasker. It's a clever, ceiling-mounted unit that combines three essential bathroom functions into one single, schmick-looking fixture:

1. Instant Heat: This is the big one, mate. Usually provided by two or four powerful infrared heat lamps (the kind made famous by IXL Tastic), they provide radiant heat. This means they warm you up instantly, not the air. It's that glorious, direct warmth you feel the second you flick the switch.
2. General Lighting: A central light, which in modern units is a bright and efficient LED panel, to properly illuminate your whole bathroom.
3. An Exhaust Fan: This is the non-negotiable part. It's a powerful fan designed to suck all that steam (moisture) and odours up and vent them outside, where they belong.

It’s the classic, practical, all-in-one package specifically designed for Aussie bathrooms.

The Ripper Benefits: Why Every Bathroom Needs One

Installing a bathroom exhaust fan with light and heater isn't just a luxury; it's a bloody smart move.

• Beats the Winter Chill: That instant, radiant heat is a total game-changer on a cold morning. No more shivering while you dry off.
• Stops Mould in its Tracks: This is a massive one. The exhaust fan is your number one weapon against a steamy bathroom. By sucking that moisture-laden air out, it drastically reduces condensation, stops your paint from peeling, and prevents that manky, unhealthy mould from getting a foothold.
• Saves Ceiling Space: Why clutter your ceiling with three separate holes for a light, a fan, and a heater? A 3-in-1 combines it all into one neat unit, which is a massive win, especially in a small bathroom or ensuite.
• Adds Proper Value: A 3-in-1 is a feature that just makes a house more comfortable to live in, and it's something that savvy homebuyers and renters actively look for.

What to Look For When Buying

• Heat Output: Do you need two or four heat lamps? For a small ensuite, two is often enough. For a big main bathroom, go the full four.
• Fan Power (Extraction Rate): Don't get a fan that's all noise and no suck! Check the extraction rate (measured in m³/hr). A good fan from a trusted electrical wholesaler will have this listed, and you need to match it to your room size.
• Light Type: Go for a modern unit with an integrated LED light. It's brighter, uses bugger-all power, and you'll never have to change the globe.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is 100% NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, this is the most important part of the whole article, so listen up. You might be handy with the tools, but you cannot install a bathroom exhaust fan with light and heater yourself.

This is not a "have a go" weekend job. You're working with 240V mains power, in a designated wet area, and it often involves cutting into the ceiling and running new ducting.

In Australia, this is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the unit is installed safely, wired correctly according to strict bathroom zoning rules, and properly ducted to the outside (not just into your roof space!).

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed electrician knows that a good, quiet fan that actually clears the steam and keeps you warm relies on using a quality, trade-grade unit. They won't risk their reputation on a cheap, noisy fan from a discount bin, because they know it'll be knackered in a year.

They source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got a massive range of high-performance bathroom exhaust fan with light and heater units from Australia's most trusted brands. Plus, they have all the compliant switches, ducting, and wiring a pro needs to do the job right. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Let's talk about the state of your bathroom after a decent hot shower. The mirror's completely fogged up, the walls are dripping, and you can practically feel the manky, black mould planning its next move in the corners. It's a fair dinkum nightmare, and it's a sign that your current ventilation is knackered, or just not up to the job.

A good bathroom exhaust fan isn't a luxury, mate; it's a non-negotiable. It's the only thing that protects your expensive reno from being destroyed by steam and moisture. So, how do you find the best bathroom exhaust fan for your place?

Why a Good Fan is So Bloody Important

A high-quality fan does more than just clear the air after a dodgy curry. Its main job is to pull all that moisture-laden steam out of the room before it gets a chance to settle.

• It Stops Mould: Mould loves damp, still air. A powerful fan sucks that moisture out, starving the mould before it can even start.
• It Protects Your Reno: All that steam and condensation will wreck your paint, make it peel, warp your timber cabinets, and can even cause structural rot over time. A good fan protects your investment.
• It Clears the Mirror: It's a simple thing, but being able to actually see your face to shave or put on makeup after a shower is a bloody convenience.

What to Look For: The 'Best' Isn't Just About Looks

When you're shopping, don't just grab the first one you see. The "best" fan is the one that does its job properly. Here's what to check.

1. Extraction Rate (m³/hr): This is The Big One!

This is the most important spec, bar none. It's a measure of how much air the fan can suck out, measured in cubic metres per hour (m³/hr). A tiny, cheap fan in a big bathroom is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike.

A rough Aussie rule of thumb: Multiply the volume of your bathroom (Length x Width x Height) by 15.

• Example: For a standard bathroom (3m long x 2m wide x 2.4m high): 3 x 2 x 2.4 = 14.4 m³ 14.4 x 15 = 216 m³/hr
• Your Answer: You need a fan with an extraction rate of at least 220 m³/hr. Don't be a galah and get an underpowered one!

2. Noise Level (dB): The 'Jet Engine' Test

The second most important thing. You don't want to flick the fan on and have it sound like a 747 is taking off in your ceiling. The noise level is measured in decibels (dB). A lower number is always better. A fan in the 25-35 dB range is considered whisper-quiet. One up in the 50s will be a proper racket.

3. The Type of Fan: Axial vs. Inline

• Axial Fan (The Standard): This is your common, all-in-one unit where the fan and motor are right there in the ceiling grille. They're cheap and easy to install, but they're generally the noisiest option.
• Inline Fan (The Pro's Choice): This is the real best bathroom exhaust fan. The fan motor itself is a separate unit that gets installed up in your roof space, connected to the ceiling grille by a short run of ducting. The result? It's whisper-quiet (all the noise is in the roof) and usually way more powerful.
• The 3-in-1 Combo: Of course, there's the classic Aussie 3-in-1 (Heat/Fan/Light). These are a ripper all-in-one solution, but make sure you check the extraction rate – some are a bit weak on the fan side.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is 100% NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, let's get dead serious for a sec. You cannot install a bathroom exhaust fan yourself.

This is not a "have a go" weekend job. You're working with 240V mains power, in a designated wet area, and it often involves cutting into the ceiling and running new ducting.

In Australia, this is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the unit is installed safely, wired correctly according to strict bathroom zoning rules, and properly ducted to the outside (not just into your roof space, which just moves the mould problem!).

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed professional knows that a good, quiet fan that actually clears the steam relies on using a quality, trade-grade unit. They won't risk their reputation on a cheap, noisy fan from a discount bin, because they know it'll be knackered in a year. They source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got a massive range of high-performance ventilation solutions, from powerful inline fans to high-extraction 3-in-1 units from Australia's most trusted brands. Plus, they have all the compliant switches, ducting, and wiring a pro needs to do the job right. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Let's be honest, there's nothing worse than stepping out of a steaming hot shower on a frosty winter morning, only to be hit by air so cold it feels like a slap in the face. You do the frantic towel dance, shivering away. Or, just as bad, you have a shower in summer, and the whole room turns into a foggy, dripping mess that you can't even see the mirror.

It's a classic Aussie bathroom drama. But thankfully, there's a fair dinkum brilliant, all-in-one solution that's been a staple in our renos for donkey's years: the 3 in 1 bathroom exhaust fan.

What's the Go with This 3-in-1 Unit?

As the name suggests, this is the ultimate multi-tasker. It's a clever, ceiling-mounted unit that combines three essential bathroom functions into one single, schmick-looking fixture:

1. Instant Heat: This is the big one, mate. Usually provided by two or four powerful infrared heat lamps (the kind made famous by IXL Tastic), they provide radiant heat. This means they warm you up instantly, not the air. It's that glorious, direct warmth you feel the second you flick the switch.
2. General Lighting: A central light, which in modern units is a bright and efficient LED panel, to properly illuminate your whole bathroom.
3. An Exhaust Fan: This is the non-negotiable part. It's a powerful fan designed to suck all that steam (moisture) and odours up and vent them outside, where they belong.

It’s the classic, practical, all-in-one package specifically designed for Aussie bathrooms.

The Ripper Benefits: Why Every Bathroom Needs One

Installing a 3 in 1 bathroom exhaust fan isn't just a luxury; it's a bloody smart move.

• Beats the Winter Chill: That instant, radiant heat is a total game-changer on a cold morning. No more shivering while you dry off.
• Stops Mould in its Tracks: This is a massive one. The exhaust fan is your number one weapon against a steamy bathroom. By sucking that moisture-laden air out, it drastically reduces condensation, stops your paint from peeling, and prevents that manky, unhealthy mould from getting a foothold.
• Saves Ceiling Space: Why clutter your ceiling with three separate holes for a light, a fan, and a heater? A 3-in-1 combines it all into one neat unit, which is a massive win, especially in a small bathroom or ensuite.
• Adds Proper Value: A 3-in-1 is a feature that just makes a house more comfortable to live in, and it's something that savvy homebuyers and renters actively look for.

What to Look For When Buying

• Heat Output: Do you need two or four heat lamps? For a small ensuite, two is often enough. For a big main bathroom, go the full four.
• Fan Power (Extraction Rate): Don't get a fan that's all noise and no suck! Check the extraction rate (measured in m³/hr). A fan from a good electrical wholesaler will have this listed, and you need to match it to your room size.
• Light Type: Go for a modern unit with an integrated LED light. It's brighter, uses bugger-all power, and you'll never have to change the globe.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is 100% NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, this is the most important part of the whole article, so listen up. You might be handy with the tools, but you cannot install a 3 in 1 bathroom exhaust fan yourself.

This is not a "have a go" weekend job. You're working with 240V mains power, in a designated wet area, and it often involves cutting into the ceiling and running new ducting.

In Australia, this is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the unit is installed safely, wired correctly according to strict bathroom zoning rules, and properly ducted to the outside (not just into your roof space!).

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed electrician knows that a good, quiet fan that actually clears the steam and keeps you warm relies on using a quality, trade-grade unit. They won't risk their reputation on a cheap, noisy fan from a discount bin, because they know it'll be knackered in a year.

They source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got a massive range of high-performance 3 in 1 bathroom exhaust fan units from Australia's most trusted brands. Plus, they have all the compliant switches, ducting, and wiring a pro needs to do the job right. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Have a squiz in your garage, your workshop, or the laundry in an older Aussie home. You'll probably find that old, daggy, cream-coloured fluorescent tube light. The one that flickers like mad, hums like a bloody mozzie in summer, and takes about five minutes to finally 'clunk' on when it's cold.

It's a proper pain, mate. Thankfully, that old-school tech is well and truly knackered. The new-school, schmick-looking, and far superior solution is the LED batten light.

An LED batten light is the modern, all-in-one replacement for those old fluros. It's a slimline ("slim profile") fitting where the LED lights are built right in (it's called an 'integrated' fitting). No more mucking around with replacing tubes or trying to find that dodgy little starter. It's a single, sleek unit that a pro just wires up, and you're sorted for the next decade.

The Ripper Benefits: Why You'd Be a Galah Not to Upgrade

Making the switch from an old fluro to a new LED batten light is a fair dinkum no-brainer. The advantages are massive.

• Saves You a Motza on Power: This is the big one. An LED batten uses a tiny fraction of the electricity compared to an old, power-hungry fluorescent tube. It's one of the easiest ways to save money on your power bill, especially in a shed or workshop where you have the lights on for hours.
• Lasts for Donkey's Years: A quality LED batten is often rated for 30,000, 40,000, or even 50,000 hours. That's years of use without ever thinking about climbing a ladder to change a tube. You just fit it and forget it.
• Instant-On, No More Mucking Around: The second you flick the switch, you get 100% bright, clean light. No flickering, no humming, no waiting. Just instant light, even on a frosty winter morning.
• Looks a Hell of a Lot Better: Let's be honest, old fluros are ugly. A modern LED batten light is slim, minimalist, and looks clean. It's a proper cosmetic upgrade for your space.
• Clever Features (Like Tri-Colour): This is a brilliant feature tradies love. Many battens you get from a good electrical wholesaler are "Tri-Colour" (or CCT selectable). This means your installer can flick a little switch on the light to choose between a cosy Warm White, a standard Cool White, or a bright, clean Daylight, so you get the perfect vibe for your room.

Where to Use Them?

The LED batten light is the ultimate workhorse, perfect for:

• Garages and Workshops (their number one job!)
• Sheds and Laundries
• Kitchens (the new slimline ones look schmick)
• Walk-in Pantries or Robes
• Home Offices

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is 100% NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, this is the most important part of the whole article, so listen up. You might be handy with the tools, but you cannot install or replace a LED batten light yourself.

This isn't a plug-in lamp, mate. It's a "hardwired" fitting that connects directly to your home's 240V mains power. In Australia, it is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician to perform this work. A simple mistake can lead to a fatal electric shock or a house fire, and it will void your home insurance in a heartbeat.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed electrician will always use high-quality, trade-grade fittings to make sure the job is safe and will last. They won't risk their reputation on a cheap, flimsy batten from a discount bin; they get their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler because they know it's compliant with Aussie standards.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got a massive range of high-quality LED batten light options, from tough, IP-rated (weatherproof) battens for your shed to slim, architectural ones for your kitchen, all from trusted trade brands. On top of that, they provide all the compliant wiring, switches, and circuit breakers a qualified professional needs to get the job done right. For a job that's bright, safe, and built to last, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! With another stinking hot Aussie summer just around the corner, we're all thinking about how to keep the house cool. You hear the term "split system" chucked around all the time by tradies, in ads, and at the hardware store. It's by far the most popular type of air con in the country.

But if you've ever found yourself nodding along while wondering, what is a split air conditioner actually?, you're not alone. Let's break down this essential bit of Aussie home tech.

The Name Says It All: It's "Split" in Two

A split air conditioner is exactly what it says on the tin. It's an air conditioning system that is split into two main parts:

1. The Indoor Unit (the "Head Unit"): This is the long, quiet, and usually schmick-looking unit that gets mounted high on an internal wall. Its job is to suck in the warm, humid air from inside your room, cool it down, and blow the lovely, chilled air back out.
2. The Outdoor Unit (the "Compressor"): This is the bigger, noisier box with the big fan that sits outside your house, usually on a concrete slab or mounted to an external wall. This is the part that does all the hard yakka.

These two units are connected by a set of insulated copper pipes (which carry the refrigerant gas) and electrical wiring, which all run through a small, neat hole in the wall.

How Does it Actually Work? The Simple Version

Without getting too technical, it’s a fair dinkum clever process. It's basically a "heat pump" – it moves heat from where you don't want it (inside) to where you don't mind it (outside).

In summer, the indoor unit sucks in the hot air from your room. The super-cold refrigerant gas running through the pipes inside this unit absorbs all that heat, like a sponge. This heat is then carried through the pipes to the outdoor unit, which has the important job of dumping all that unwanted heat into the outside air. The now-cool, dehumidified air is then blown back into your room, making it a comfortable oasis on a 40-degree arvo. You beauty!

Why Are They So Ripper for Aussie Homes?

There's a reason a split air conditioner is the number one choice for most Australian homes.

• They're Super Efficient: Modern split systems are incredibly energy-efficient compared to old-school "window rattler" units. This means they can cool your space down without sending your power bill through the roof.
• Quiet Operation (Inside, at Least!): This is a huge advantage. Because all the noisy parts (like the compressor) are located in the outdoor unit, the indoor unit is whisper-quiet, so it won't disturb you while you're watching the footy or trying to sleep.
• Flexible Installation: Because they don't require massive ducts in the ceiling (like a ducted system), split systems can be installed in almost any home, from a small apartment to a large open-plan living area. They are perfect for cooling a single room or zone.
• Most are 'Reverse Cycle': This is a brilliant feature for our varied Aussie climate. Almost every split air conditioner sold here is a "reverse cycle" model. With the flick of a switch on the remote, the system can run in reverse – absorbing heat from the cold outside air and pumping it inside to work as a very effective and efficient heater in winter.

A Quick Word on Installation: Strictly a Pro's Job

Because a split air conditioner involves both high-voltage electricity and high-pressure refrigerant gases, it is illegal and unsafe to install one yourself in Australia.

The job requires two licensed professionals: a licensed air conditioning technician (who holds an ARCtick licence) to handle the refrigerant gas and pipework, and a licensed electrician to run the dedicated 240V power circuit from your switchboard.

The electrical installation is a critical part of ensuring your new air conditioner runs safely and efficiently for years to come. This is why professional installers and licensed electricians only use trade-quality gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks all the essential, compliant gear that a qualified professional needs for the job. From the heavy-duty wiring and circuit breakers for your switchboard to the robust, weatherproof isolator switches for the outdoor unit, they provide the trade-quality components that ensure your new air con is installed safely and reliably. For a top-notch result, the pros start with quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the thick of a reno, or you're just sick of sweating through another Aussie summer. You know you need to cool the whole house – say, the three bedrooms and the main living area.

Your first thought might be a massive, expensive ducted system. Your second thought might be just whacking four separate split systems on the walls. But then you've got four big, noisy outdoor units cluttering up your verandah, making a proper racket.

There has to be a better way, right? Well, there is, mate. It's the multi split air conditioner, and it's a fair dinkum clever solution.

So, What is a Multi Split Air Conditioner, Exactly?

A multi split air conditioner (or as many tradies call it, a 'multi-head' system) is a brilliant hybrid. It gives you the flexibility of individual split systems, but with the space-saving benefit of a central unit.

It works like this:

• You have ONE single, grunty outdoor unit (the compressor).
• This one outdoor unit is then connected (via refrigerant pipes and wiring) to MULTIPLE indoor units (usually 2 to 5).

And the best part? You can mix and match the indoor units. You could have a standard, wall-mounted head unit in the bedrooms, a sleek, flush-mount 'cassette' in the lounge room ceiling, and maybe even a small, ducted unit for the home office.

The Ripper Benefits: Why It's a Top Choice

Why would you choose a multi split air conditioner over just whacking in a few separate systems? The advantages are huge.

• Saves Your Precious Outdoor Space: This is the big kahuna, mate. You only have one outdoor unit to worry about, not four or five. For an apartment, a townhouse, or any Aussie home with a small backyard, this is a total game-changer. It looks a hell of a lot schmicker, too.
• Flexible, Zoned Comfort: This is the big win over a standard ducted system. You get individual control. You can have the kids' room at 24°C, your bedroom at 18°C, and the lounge room off completely. You're only cooling the rooms you're actually in, which can save you a motza.
• Quiet Operation (Inside): Just like a standard split system, all the noisy gear (the compressor and fan) is in the one unit outside. The indoor units are whisper-quiet, so they're perfect for bedrooms.
• Energy Efficiency: A single, modern, high-capacity inverter outdoor unit running at part-load to cool one or two rooms is often more energy-efficient than running four separate, smaller systems.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: This is 100% NOT a DIY Job!

Righto, let's get dead serious for a sec. This isn't like installing a window rattler. A multi split air conditioner installation is complex, involves high-voltage power, and uses high-pressure refrigerant gas.

In Australia, it is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than licensed professionals to do this work. A dodgy install will void your warranty and poses a massive fire or safety risk.

You must use two types of licensed professionals:

1. A Licensed Air Conditioning Technician: They need a valid ARCtick licence to legally handle the refrigerant gas, run the multiple lines of copper pipe, and commission the system.
2. A Licensed Electrician: This is not a plug-in appliance. A big, grunty multi-head outdoor unit needs its own, dedicated high-power circuit from your switchboard. This must be installed by a qualified electrician.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A licensed electrician knows that a complex, high-power installation like this relies on top-notch, compliant electrical gear. They can't risk their reputation on dodgy wiring; they'll get their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got all the heavy-duty, compliant gear a qualified professional needs – from the thick, heavy-duty wiring and the dedicated RCBOs (safety switches) for the switchboard, to the robust weatherproof isolator switch that sits next to the outdoor unit. For a job this big, the pros start with quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! So you've done it. You've braved the Good Guys sale, scored a schmick new split system air con, and you're all set to beat that stinking hot Aussie summer. You get the two big boxes home, look at the instructions, and think, "She'll be right, how hard can a bit of split air conditioner installation be?"

Righto, STOP right there, mate.

This is the most important advice you'll ever get about your new air con: This is absolutely not a DIY job. Don't be a galah. It's not just tricky – in Australia, it's illegal, extremely dangerous, and will void your warranty in a heartbeat.

Why You Need to Call the Pros: The Two Trades

A split air conditioner installation isn't one job; it's two separate, highly regulated trades rolled into one. You can't just hire any handyman. By law, you need two different types of licensed professionals.

1. The Refrigeration Pro (ARCtick Licence)

A split system works by moving refrigerant gas between the indoor and outdoor units. This gas is under high pressure and is heavily regulated to protect the environment. It is illegal for anyone without a valid ARCtick refrigerant handling licence to install the unit, run the copper pipes, or handle the gas. A dodgy install will lead to leaks, a knackered compressor, and poor performance.

2. The Electrical Pro (Licensed Electrician)

This is the other critical, non-negotiable part. A split system is a high-power appliance. It can't just be plugged into your nearest power point – that's a massive fire risk.

A split air conditioner installation requires its own dedicated 240V power circuit run directly from your switchboard. This work must only ever be carried out by a licensed electrician. They are the only ones legally allowed to perform this work, ensuring the wiring is safe and won't overload your home's system.

What's a "Back-to-Back" Install? (The Standard Job)

When you're getting quotes, you'll hear every tradie in the business use the term "back-to-back." This is the simplest, cheapest, and most common type of split air conditioner installation.

It means:

• The indoor unit (the head unit) is mounted on an external wall (a wall that has the outside on the other side).
• The outdoor unit (the compressor) is placed on the ground or on brackets directly behind the indoor unit.

This setup requires the shortest possible run of piping and cabling (usually 3 metres or less), which means less time and less material, saving you a motza.

What Makes the Installation Cost More Exxy?

If your quote comes in higher than the basic "back-to-back" price, it's almost certainly because your job is more complex. The price will climb if:

• You want the indoor unit on an internal wall. This is a much bigger job. The installer has to run the pipes and drain hose up into the roof cavity, across, and then down the outside wall.
• You're in a double-brick or concrete apartment. Drilling through that is much harder yakka than a simple weatherboard wall.
• Your switchboard is old and knackered. The electrician might need to install a new safety switch (RCBO) to protect the new circuit, and if your board is full or uses old ceramic fuses, you might need a bigger upgrade.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

The safety and lifespan of your new air con depend entirely on the quality of the split air conditioner installation. A licensed electrician won't risk their reputation or your safety by using dodgy, cheap components. They will always source high-quality, compliant gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks all the essential, compliant gear that a qualified professional needs for the job. From the heavy-duty, outdoor-rated wiring and the correct RCBOs for the switchboard, to the robust, weatherproof isolator switches for the outdoor unit, they provide the trade-quality components that ensure your new air con is installed safely, reliably, and to Australian standards. For a job done right, the pros start with quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Whether you're trying to light up the backyard for a barbie that's kicking on after dark, flood the driveway so you can see what you're doing, or deter any stickybeaks from having a poke around, you need a light with some serious grunt.

For years, that meant a big, old halogen floodlight that got hotter than a car bonnet in summer and chewed through power like there was no tomorrow. But those days are long gone, mate. The modern, smarter, and far cheaper-to-run solution is the LED floodlight.

What's the Go with an LED Floodlight?

An LED floodlight is a high-intensity light designed to 'flood' a large area with a wide beam of light. The "LED" part (Light Emitting Diode) is the technology that makes it so bloody good. Unlike old halogens that used a fragile filament in a glass bulb, LEDs are a tough, solid-state technology that has completely changed the game.

The Ripper Benefits: Why LED is a No-Brainer

If you're still running those old, hot halogens, it's fair dinkum time for an upgrade. The advantages of a modern LED floodlight are massive.

• Saves You a Motza on Power: This is the big one. An LED floodlight uses a tiny fraction of the electricity – sometimes up to 85% less – than an old halogen to produce the same (or even more!) bright light. This is a massive win for your power bill.
• Lasts for Donkey's Years: A quality LED flood light is rated to last for tens of thousands of hours (e.g., 25,000 to 50,000 hours). That's years and years of use, meaning no more climbing a dodgy ladder in the rain to change a blown globe.
• Instant Brightness: No warming up. You flick the switch, and you get 100% brightness instantly. Perfect for security.
• Built Tough for Aussie Weather: LEDs are durable. They handle vibrations and temperature changes way better than fragile old globes.
• Runs Cool (Much Safer): Old halogens got dangerously hot, posing a real burn or fire risk. LEDs run significantly cooler, making them a much safer option for installing under your eaves or near the house.

What to Look For When Buying One

Before you grab the first one you see, here's what to check:

• Brightness (Lumens, not Watts!): Forget what you knew about watts. The brightness of an LED floodlight is measured in lumens (lm). More lumens = more light. A small one for a pathway might be 700lm, while a proper security floodlight for a driveway might be 2000lm or more.
• IP Rating (Weatherproofing): This is non-negotiable, mate. It's going outside, so it needs to be weatherproof. Look for the IP Rating.
  • IP44: Is "splash-proof" and okay for under a well-covered eave.
  • IP65 (or higher): Is the go-to. It's "water-jet proof," meaning it can handle being blasted by heavy rain and the garden hose without a worry.
• Colour Temperature: Do you want a Warm White (around 3000K) for a cosy, ambient feel on your patio, or a crisp Cool White / Daylight (4000K-5000K+) for clear, bright security lighting on the driveway?
• Sensor Option: Many LED floodlight models come with a built-in motion sensor, which is a brilliant choice for security and convenience.

Installation: Strictly a Job for a Licensed Professional

This is the most critical part. A LED floodlight is a hardwired 240V appliance. It needs to be safely connected to your home's mains power, often in an exposed outdoor location.

In Australia, it is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed professional to perform this work. You're dealing with live power and water – a combination you just don't muck around with.

A pro knows to get their gear from a proper electrical wholesaler to ensure it's compliant. This work must only ever be carried out by a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the light is installed safely, all connections are completely weatherproof, the fitting is correctly earthed, and the entire job complies with Australian standards.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A high-performance LED floodlight is a serious bit of kit. To get a safe, reliable, and long-lasting installation, professional installers and licensed electricians rely on high-quality, trade-grade products from trusted suppliers. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks a complete range of high-quality electrical gear. From robust, high IP-rated LED floodlight units from trusted trade brands, to all the essential, compliant wiring, weatherproof switches, and switchboard protection that a qualified professional needs to get the job done right. For a lighting setup that's built to last, the pros start with quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! Let's talk about home security. You can have the best locks in the world, but there's nothing a potential intruder hates more than one simple thing: being seen. A dark, shadowy backyard or driveway is a fair dinkum open invitation for stickybeaks.

That's where the trusty floodlight with sensor comes in. It's a simple, robust, and incredibly effective bit of kit. It’s the classic Aussie solution for blasting those dark corners with light, giving you a massive boost in security and a handy bit of convenience.

What's the Go with a Floodlight with Sensor?

It's a clever two-in-one combo. It takes a powerful, high-brightness floodlight (designed to light up a big area) and pairs it with a motion sensor.

This sensor is the "brains" of the operation. Instead of the light blazing away all night, chewing through power and annoying the neighbours, it sits there quietly, just waiting. The moment it detects movement – like someone walking up the driveway or into the backyard – it instantly switches the floodlight on, bathing the whole area in bright light.

How Does the Sensor Bit Actually Work?

Most floodlight with sensor models use a PIR (Passive Infrared) sensor. It's a clever bit of tech that doesn't "look" for movement, but instead "feels" for heat. It passively scans its designated area for a normal, background heat signature. When a warm body (like a person or a car) moves into that area, it detects the sudden change in infrared energy and—BAM!—it triggers the light.

The Ripper Benefits: Why Every Aussie Home Needs One

• Massive Security Deterrent: This is its number one job, mate. No crook wants to be suddenly lit up like the MCG on Boxing Day. A bright, sudden light is one of the most effective ways to send them scarpering.
• Hands-Free Convenience: It's not just for security. Pull into the driveway late at night with a car full of groceries, and the light flicks on automatically, lighting up your path to the door. No more fumbling for keys in the dark. You beauty!
• Safety First: It's brilliant for preventing accidents. A floodlight with sensor instantly illuminates steps, pathways, and any kids' bikes or tools left lying around, stopping you from taking a nasty tumble.
• Saves a Motza on Your Power Bill: Because it only comes on when it's actually needed for a few minutes, it uses a tiny fraction of the electricity compared to leaving a big, power-hungry floodlight on all night long.

What to Look For in a Good, Tough Unit

• LED is King: Don't even bother with the old halogen models. A modern LED floodlight with sensor is the only way to go. It's incredibly bright, uses bugger-all power, lasts for donkey's years, and provides instant-on brightness.
• IP Rating (Weatherproofing): This is non-negotiable. It's going to live outside in the Aussie weather. You need a good IP (Ingress Protection) rating. Look for at least IP44 for units under an eave, but for an exposed spot, IP65 or higher is what you want to protect it from dust and driving rain.
• Adjustable Settings: A good sensor light will let you adjust three key things:
  1. Sensitivity (SENS): How far away it detects movement.
  2. Time: How long the light stays on after being triggered (e.g., 30 seconds to 10 minutes).
  3. Lux (LUX): How dark it needs to be before the sensor even bothers to switch on (so it doesn't come on during the day).

A CRITICAL Warning: Hardwired vs. Solar

You'll see two types out there: solar-powered and hardwired.

• Solar: These are a great DIY option for spots that are hard to get power to, like the back shed or a fence line. They're free to run, but their brightness and reliability can depend on how much sun the panel got that day.
• Hardwired (240V): This is the real deal. It's the most reliable and powerful option for your main security lighting. It's connected directly to your home's mains power.

This is the most important part: Installing a hardwired (240V) floodlight with sensor involves working with high-voltage electricity in an outdoor environment. In Australia, this is strictly not a DIY job. It is illegal and extremely dangerous.

This work must only ever be carried out by a licensed electrician. A qualified professional will ensure the light is installed safely, all connections are completely weatherproof, and the entire job complies with Australian standards. They will source their high-quality fittings from a trusted electrical wholesaler.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A high-performance security light is a critical part of your home's safety system. For a reliable, long-lasting installation, professional installers and licensed electricians only use trade-quality gear from trusted suppliers. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks a complete range of trade-quality electrical gear. This includes high-quality, IP-rated floodlight with sensor units designed for tough Aussie conditions, alongside all the essential weatherproof wiring, switches, and circuit protection that a qualified professional needs to get the job done right. For a security setup that's built to last, the pros start with quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.