G'day! Whether you're a seasoned tradie with a ute full of gear or a weekend warrior just starting to tackle your first reno, there's one thing every Aussie needs: a decent drill bit set.

We've all been there. You're trying to hang a shelf, you grab your drill, and the bit just screeches and smokes, making a proper dog's breakfast of the job. It's a fair dinkum frustrating moment, and it's almost always because you're using the wrong bit. A timber bit won't touch brick, and a masonry bit will tear your timber to shreds.

That's why a good drill bit set – or a few different sets – is a non-negotiable. It's the only way to make sure you've got the right tool for the job.

Why a "She'll Be Right" Attitude Doesn't Work

It's tempting to just buy a massive, 100-piece kit for $20 from a discount shop, but it's a false economy, mate. Those cheap-as-chips bits are often made of soft metal and will get knackered after one or two uses, especially on hard Aussie timber or metal.

A good drill bit set is an investment. It'll save you a motza in the long run, not to mention a heap of frustration.

The Main Types: What Your Kit Needs

A top-notch, comprehensive setup usually means having a few different types of bits, sorted by the material you're drilling.

1. The Workhorse: HSS (High-Speed Steel) Drill Bit Set

This is your bread and butter. It's the classic, general-purpose drill bit set that's a must-have for every tool bag.

• What it looks like: Your standard black or silver (and sometimes gold-coloured 'titanium coated') twist drill bits.
• Best for: Timber (like treated pine for a pergola), plastics, plasterboard, and softer metals like aluminium.

2. The Brick Buster: Masonry Drill Bit Set

This is the one you need for drilling into your house. You'll know it by its tough, arrow-shaped tungsten carbide tip.

• Best for: Brick, mortar, concrete blocks, and light-duty concrete.
• How to use it: This bit is designed to be used with your drill's 'hammer' function. It pulverises the material, it doesn't cut it.

3. The Heavy Hitter: Cobalt (HSS-Co) Drill Bit Set

This is the one the pros reach for when the going gets tough. A cobalt bit isn't just coated; the cobalt is mixed right through the steel, making it incredibly hard and heat-resistant.

• Best for: Tough, hard metals. This is the best drill bit set for stainless steel, cast iron, and other hardened metals.
• Hot Tip: You MUST use these at a slow speed and with a cutting lubricant, or you'll knacker even this tough bit.

4. The Timber Specialist: Spade Bit / Brad-Point Set

• Spade Bits: Those flat, paddle-shaped bits for ripping big, rough holes through timber studs (perfect for running pipes or cables).
• Brad-Point Bits: These have a tiny, sharp spike on the end that stops the bit from "wandering," giving you a schmick, clean, and perfectly placed hole in timber. A must for cabinetry or fine woodworking.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

Having the right drill bit set is the mark of a pro. A licensed electrician can't be mucking around with a blunt bit when they're drilling into a metal switchboard or a brick wall. They need the right tool, like a sharp cobalt or SDS masonry bit, to do the job cleanly and efficiently.

But the drill bit is just the start. The real job is about installing the high-quality, compliant components that go into the hole. This is why pros rely on a trusted electrical wholesaler for their supplies. They need to know that every fitting, from the switchboard to the final power point, is trade-quality and meets our strict Aussie standards.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the robust switchboards and enclosures that a tradie needs to drill into, to the high-quality, compliant conduits, cables, and power points that get fitted off, they provide the gear that ensures a job is safe, compliant, and built to last. For a job that's professional from the tool to the final connection, the pros use quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the shed, trying to drill a hole in a bit of steel... maybe a bracket for the ute, a post for the fence, or some sheet metal for a project. You grab your standard drill bit, the one you use for timber, give it a burl, and... screeeech.

You're met with a puff of smoke, a lot of noise, and a metal drill bit that's now as blunt as a brick, having barely made a dent. It's a fair dinkum frustrating moment, and it's almost always because you're using the wrong bit, or the right bit the wrong way.

When it comes to drilling metal, you need a proper metal drill bit and a bit of know-how.

Your Go-To: The HSS (High-Speed Steel) Bit

First up is your bread-and-butter, all-rounder: the HSS (High-Speed Steel) bit. These are your classic 'twist' bits, often black or silver. They're a ripper for:

• Timber (like Pine)
• Plastics
• Soft metals like aluminium and copper
• Thin, mild steel (like sheet metal or a metal stud)

For most jobs around the house, a good quality HSS metal drill bit set will get you by.

The 'Gold' Ones: Titanium Coated Bits

Then you've got those schmick, gold-coloured bits. These are just HSS bits that have been coated with Titanium Nitride (TiN). This is a super-hard coating that reduces friction and heat, making the bit last a hell of a lot longer than a standard HSS bit... if you're drilling mild steel.

The catch? It's just a coating, mate. Once you've re-sharpened it, or that coating wears off from hard yakka, it's just a standard HSS bit underneath.

The Big Kahuna: Cobalt (HSS-Co) Drill Bits

Righto, let's get serious. If you're trying to drill into hard metal, you need to bring in the big guns. This is for:

• Stainless Steel: Notoriously tough to drill.
• Hardened Steel: Like a broken bolt you need to drill out.
• Cast Iron and other tough alloys.

For these jobs, you need a Cobalt bit (often marked HSS-Co). A cobalt bit isn't just coated; the cobalt (usually 5-8%) is mixed right through the steel alloy. This means the entire bit has massive heat resistance, right to its very core. Even as it wears down and you re-sharpen it, it's still a tough-as-nails cobalt bit. This is the one the pros use when they're not mucking about.

How to Drill Metal Like a Pro (and Not Wreck Your Bits)

This is the secret, mate. You can have the best metal drill bit in the world, but if you use it like a galah, you'll knacker it in seconds.

1. GO SLOW! This is the golden rule. Stop going at it full-pelt like you're drilling pine. Speed is the enemy. It builds up heat, and heat is what kills drill bits. Use a slow, steady speed on your drill.
2. USE LUBE (NON-NEGOTIABLE!): You must use a cutting fluid, oil, or lubricant. It keeps the bit and the workpiece cool, clears the metal shavings (swarf), and makes the bit last a million times longer. Don't be lazy – a bit of lube makes all the difference.
3. FIRM, STEADY PRESSURE: Don't try to force it, but don't be shy either. Apply firm, consistent pressure and let the bit do the work. If you see smoke, you're either going too fast, pushing too hard, or not using lube.
4. PECK DRILLING: For thicker bits of metal, drill for a few seconds, pull the bit back out to clear the swarf, then go back in.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

Using the right metal drill bit is the mark of a pro. A licensed electrician, for example, can't be mucking around with a blunt bit when they're drilling a clean, precise hole into a new metal switchboard or a heavy-duty enclosure.

They know that a professional job relies on two things: the right tools for the job, and the right, high-quality components to install. This is why a professional sources their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. They need to know that the enclosures, circuit breakers, and cable glands they're fitting are all compliant and built to last.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the robust, high-quality metal enclosures and switchboards that a tradie needs to drill into, to all the compliant cable glands, conduits, and safety switches that get fitted off afterwards. They provide the professional-grade gear that ensures a job is safe, compliant, and built to last. For a job that's professional from the drill bit to the final connection, the pros get their supplies from a proper electrical wholesaler like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're at the pointy end of your bathroom or kitchen reno. The new tile drill bit are up, they've cost you a motza, and they look absolutely schmick. Now comes the hard part... you need to hang that new towel rail, fit off the toilet roll holder, or install a power point.

You grab your drill, and you freeze. The thought of drilling into that shiny, new, hard-as-nails tile is fair dinkum terrifying. One slip, one wobble, or just the wrong bit, and... CRACK! You've just knackered a $50 tile and ruined your whole day. It's a proper 'squeaky bum' moment, mate.

Why Your Standard Drill Bit is a Recipe for Disaster

Righto, first things first. Put that standard black HSS drill bit down. That's for timber and metal, and it won't even scratch the surface of a modern tile. And definitely don't even think about using your masonry bit. A masonry bit is a "hammer" bit – it's designed to pulverise brick. If you use that on a brittle tile, it will shatter it into a million pieces.

To get through tile, you need a specialist. You need a proper tile drill bit.

Choosing Your Weapon: The Two Main Types of Tile Drill Bit

There are two main types of tile drill bit you'll find in Australia, and you need to choose the right one for your job.

1. Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT) / Spear-Head Bits

These are the most common ones you'll see. They have a very sharp, arrow-shaped or 'spear-head' tip made of tungsten carbide.

• Best for: Softer ceramic wall tiles, like your classic white subway tiles or standard glazed wall tiles.
• How they work: The sharp, pointy tip is a ripper for stopping the drill from "wandering" or slipping on the shiny tile surface, allowing you to start a clean hole.

2. Diamond Tipped / Diamond Hole Saws

This is the heavy artillery, mate. These bits don't have a sharp point. Instead, their cutting edge is coated or embedded with industrial diamond grit.

• Best for: This is the only choice for drilling into hard porcelain tiles, dense floor tiles, stone (like granite or marble), or glass.
• How they work: A diamond bit doesn't "cut" – it grinds its way through the material. It's a slower process, but it's the only one that will get through these super-tough surfaces without cracking them.

The Golden Rules: How to Drill Tile Without Mucking It Up

Got the right bit? Good. Now, the technique is everything.

• Rule 1: NO HAMMER DRILL! I'll say it again. Find the hammer function symbol on your drill and turn it OFF. You want to drill, not pulverise.
• Rule 2: SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE. Speed is your worst enemy. It builds up friction and heat, and heat is what cracks tiles and knackers your drill bit. Use a slow, steady speed on your drill.
• Rule 3: TAPE IT UP. Stick a bit of masking tape on the tile where you want to drill. It gives the tile drill bit tip something to bite into and stops it from slipping and skidding all over the shiny surface.
• Rule 4: KEEP IT COOL, MATE (USE WATER). If you're using a diamond drill bit, it must be kept cool. Heat will destroy the diamond coating. Have a spray bottle of water handy and give the hole a good squirt every 10-15 seconds. It keeps the dust down and, most importantly, keeps the bit from overheating.

When to Call a Licensed Professional

Look, drilling a 6mm hole for a towel rail is a classic DIY job if you take your time and follow the rules. But what if you need to drill a massive 90mm hole for a downlight, or cut a perfect square for a new power point right in the middle of your new splashback?

That's where the pros take over. Drilling large, precise holes in expensive, brittle tiles – especially for 240V electrical fittings – is a high-stakes job. A licensed electrician has the right gear (like professional-grade diamond hole saws and guides) and the know-how to do it right.

They also know that the fitting they put in that hole has to be just as high-quality and, crucially, IP-rated (weatherproof) for a wet area like a bathroom. This is why a pro will source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. They need to know the downlights and switches they're installing are 100% compliant.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the specialist diamond hole saws that tradies need for the perfect cut, to the IP-rated, bathroom-safe LED downlights, exhaust fans, and power points that get installed into those holes. For a job that's safe, compliant, and looks schmick from start to finish, the pros rely on quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the shed or on the worksite, ready to drill a hole in a metal switchboard, a junction box, or a bit of sheet metal. You're faced with a common, frustrating problem: you need a 16mm hole, but your drill kit only has a 12mm and a 19mm. Or, you use a big twist drill, and it grabs the thin metal, tears it, and leaves a jagged, ugly hole that looks like a dog's breakfast.

It's a proper pain, mate. But there's a fair dinkum brilliant tool that's designed for this exact job. It’s the step drill bit, or as every Aussie tradie calls it, the "Christmas Tree Bit."

What's a Step Drill Bit, Exactly?

A step drill bit is a single, cone-shaped drill bit that has multiple "steps" of different diameters, all on the one bit. As you drill, each "step" drills a slightly larger, perfectly round hole.

Its unique design makes it the absolute king for drilling into thin materials, like:

• Sheet metal (like Colorbond or Zincalume)
• Aluminium
• Plastic enclosures
• Fibreglass

The Ripper Benefits: Why Every Tradie Has One

Why would you use this weird-looking cone instead of a normal twist drill? The advantages are massive.

• One Bit, Many Holes: This is the big one. A single step drill bit can replace a whole case of different-sized twist drills. No more fumbling around trying to find the 12mm bit; you just stop drilling when you hit the 12mm "step." It saves a motza in time and kit space.
• It Drills a Schmick, Clean Hole: A standard twist drill bit's flute can 'grab' and 'tear' thin sheet metal, creating a horrible, jagged-edged hole. A step drill bit, by its nature, gradually enlarges the hole, giving you a perfectly round, clean cut every time.
• It Deburrs the Hole for You: As one step finishes cutting and the next step begins, the edge of that new, larger step automatically cleans and deburrs the edge of the hole you just made. This gives you a safe, smooth finish with no sharp bits. You beauty!
• Perfect for Enlarging Existing Holes: Need to make that old 10mm hole into a 20mm one to fit a new cable gland? A normal drill bit will just wander and jam. A step drill bit is perfectly centred by the old hole and will enlarge it cleanly and easily.

How to Use It Like a Pro (and Not Knacker It)

A step drill bit is a legend, but you've got to treat it right, especially on metal.

• It's for THIN Material Only: This is the golden rule. A step drill bit is not for drilling a 20mm hole through a thick bit of steel plate or a timber sleeper. It's designed for materials thinner than the height of the "step."
• Slow and Steady, Mate: Don't go at it full-pelt with your drill on the hammer setting. You'll just overheat the bit and knacker it in seconds. Use a slow, steady drill speed.
• Use Cutting Lube (Non-Negotiable!): When drilling metal, you must use a cutting fluid or oil. A few drops will keep the bit cool, stop it from getting blunt, and give you a much cleaner cut.
• Firm, Even Pressure: Let the bit do the work. Apply firm, consistent pressure and let the steps cut their way through.

A Must-Have Tool for the Pros

Because it's so perfect for sheet metal and enclosures, the step drill bit is a non-negotiable tool for licensed electricians. When they need to drill a clean, precise 20mm or 25mm hole in a metal switchboard for a conduit, or a hole for a switch in a control panel, this is the tool they reach for.

A pro knows that a clean, precise hole is the first step of a safe, compliant installation. They also know that the gear they're installing must be top-notch, which is why they get their supplies from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the high-quality step drill bits themselves, to the robust metal enclosures, switchboards, and compliant cable glands that get fitted into those perfectly-drilled holes. For a job that's safe, compliant, and looks schmick, the pros rely on quality tools and quality components from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! If you've ever tried to drill a serious, deep hole through a thick bit of timber—like a pergola post, a garden sleeper, or the joists under your house—you'll know that a standard drill bit is a recipe for a bad time. It'll get knackered, jam up, and you'll be left with a dog's breakfast of a hole.

Even a spade bit can struggle, requiring a heap of downward force. When the hard yakka calls for a deep, wide, and clean-ish hole in timber, you need to bring in the heavy hitter. You need the auger drill bit.

What Makes it a Ripper? The 'Corkscrew' Explained

An auger drill bit is a fair dinkum clever bit of kit, and you'll know one when you see it. It looks like a massive, beefy corkscrew. Its design is pure genius for one job: chewing through timber with minimal effort from you.

It's all about three key parts:

1. The Self-Feeding Screw Tip: This is the magic, mate. The sharp, threaded tip isn't just for show. As you start drilling, this screw bites into the timber and actively pulls the rest of the bit through the wood. You don't have to push; you just have to hang on!
2. The Deep Flutes (The Corkscrew): This is the bit that makes it so good for deep holes. As the bit drills, the deep, wide "flutes" (the spiral grooves) act like a conveyor belt, lifting and clearing the wood chips (swarf) up and out of the hole. This stops the bit from jamming and overheating.
3. The Cutting Spurs: Right at the bottom, before the flutes start, are one or more sharp cutting edges (spurs). These score the timber on the outside of the hole, leading to a much cleaner entry and exit than you'd get from a spade bit.

Why is it a Tradie's Best Mate?

This is the go-to bit for plumbers and electricians for a reason.

• It's fast and aggressive.
• It clears its own chips, so it's perfect for drilling deep holes.
• The self-feeding tip does all the hard yakka, so you're not putting your shoulder out trying to force it through a tough joist.

Where You'll See an Auger Bit Used

This is the workhorse for any tradie or serious DIYer working with timber framing:

• Electricians: Running power cables or conduits through multiple timber studs or noggins.
• Plumbers: Drilling through floor joists to run new water or waste pipes.
• Builders & Landscapers: Building pergolas, decks, and retaining walls, or drilling into thick sleepers.
• Any DIYer in the shed who needs to drill a clean, deep hole in a workbench post.

A CRITICAL Warning: This Tool Has Some Serious Grunt

Righto, listen up, because this is the most important part. An auger drill bit does not muck around. Because of that self-feeding screw tip, it grabs the timber with serious force.

If it hits a knot in the wood, or worse, a nail you didn't know was there, the bit can stop dead instantly. When it stops, the drill doesn't. This can send the drill spinning with enough force to just about break your wrist.

• Rule 1: You must use a powerful, high-torque drill (not a little driver) and run it at a slow speed.
• Rule 2: If your drill has a side handle, use it. This is non-negotiable.
• Rule 3: Hold on tight, mate, with both hands. Be prepared for it to bite.
• Rule 4: Let the screw tip do the work. Your job is just to keep it straight and stay in control.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

Using the right auger drill bit is the mark of a pro. A licensed electrician drilling holes for a new circuit knows that a clean, fast hole is the first step to a quality job.

But the tool is just the start. The real job is about the high-quality, compliant components they're about to run through that hole. A pro installer can't risk their reputation or your safety on dodgy gear. That's why they source their supplies from a trusted electrical wholesaler. Getting the right advice and the right gear from a proper electrical wholesaler is key.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical suppliers, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the heavy-duty auger drill bits the pros use, to the high-quality, compliant electrical cables, conduits, and switchgear that get installed afterwards. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last from the hole to the home, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the middle of a schmick bathroom or kitchen reno. The new tiles are up, they've cost you a motza, and they look unreal. Now comes the hard part... you need to drill a hole to fit off the new shower rail, toilet roll holder, or maybe even a power point.

You grab your drill, chuck in a standard masonry bit, and... screeeech! You're met with a cloud of smoke, a knackered, glowing-hot drill bit, and if you're really unlucky, a massive crack right across your brand new, $50 tile. It's a fair dinkum nightmare, mate.

Why Your Standard Bit is a Recipe for Disaster

Righto, let's get this straight: your standard HSS (metal) bit won't even scratch the surface, and your masonry (brick) bit is even worse. A masonry bit works by hammering and pulverising – it's designed to smash its way through concrete. If you use that on a brittle tile, it will shatter it, guaranteed.

For hard, brittle surfaces like porcelain and glass, you need to grind, not cut. And for that, you need to bring in the king: the diamond drill bit.

So, What is a Diamond Drill Bit, Exactly?

A diamond drill bit isn't sharp like a normal drill. Instead, it's a steel bit where the cutting edge is coated or embedded with fine, industrial-grade diamond particles. Because diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, this bit doesn't cut or tear – it slowly grinds its way through the material, creating a clean, perfect hole.

You'll generally find two main types:

1. Diamond Hole Saws (or Core Bits): These are hollow, cup-shaped bits for drilling larger, clean holes (like for pipes or downlights).
2. Diamond Tipped "Spear" Bits: These are for smaller holes (e.g., 6mm or 8mm). They have a solid, spear-shaped tip coated in diamond grit.

When Do You Need This Ripper Tool?

A diamond drill bit is the absolute non-negotiable tool for drilling clean holes in:

• Porcelain Tiles: This is their number one job. Modern porcelain tiles are incredibly hard and will destroy almost any other bit.
• Hard Ceramic Tiles & Stone: Including granite and marble (like on a vanity top).
• Glass: Perfect for glass splashbacks or custom projects.
• Fibreglass: Like in a shower base or a tinnie.

The Golden Rules: How to Drill Tile Without Mucking It Up

Got the right bit? Good. Now, the technique is everything. Don't be a galah and rush it.

• Rule 1: NO HAMMER DRILL! I'll say it again. Find the hammer function symbol on your drill and turn it OFF. You want to drill, not pulverise.
• Rule 2: SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE. Speed is your worst enemy. It builds up friction and heat, and heat is what cracks tiles and knackers your diamond bit. Use a slow, steady speed on your drill.
• Rule 3: YOU MUST USE WATER (Wet Drilling). This is non-negotiable, mate. Grinding creates a massive amount of heat. You must keep the bit and the tile cool.
  • How? Have a spray bottle handy and give the hole a good squirt every 10-15 seconds. Or, for a pro job, make a little 'dam' out of plumber's putty around the hole and fill it with a small pool of water.
• Rule 4: START ON AN ANGLE. For a diamond hole saw (the hollow one), it's easiest to start drilling at a 45-degree angle. Once it "bites" and starts to cut a small groove, slowly and gently tilt the drill up to 90 degrees (straight on) to finish the hole.

A Hole is Just a Hole... Until You Put a Fitting In It

Righto, so drilling a 6mm hole for a towel rail is a classic (if careful) DIY job. But what about drilling a 90mm hole for a new downlight in your tiled bathroom ceiling? Or cutting a hole for a 240V power point right in your new glass splashback?

That's where the DIY job stops and the pro's work begins. This is high-stakes stuff. Cutting the hole and, more importantly, installing the electrical fitting in a wet area, is strictly a job for a licensed electrician. They have the right gear (like professional-grade hole saws and guides) and the know-how to do it without causing a disaster.

A pro also knows that the fitting they install has to be top-notch and fully compliant, which is why they get their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the specialist diamond drill bit and hole saw kits that tradies need for the perfect cut, to the high-quality, IP-rated, bathroom-safe LED downlights and power points that get installed into those holes. For a job that's safe, compliant, and looks schmick from start to finish, the pros rely on quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the middle of a weekend reno. You need to hang a heavy-duty shelf, install a TV bracket, or run some conduit, and you're faced with a good, solid, Aussie brick wall or a concrete slab. You grab your standard drill bit (the black or silver HSS one you use for timber), give it a burl, and... screeeech.

You're met with a cloud of smoke, a deafening noise, a knackered, glowing-hot drill bit, and a wall that's barely got a scratch. It's a fair dinkum frustrating moment.

That, mate, is because you've brought the wrong tool to the fight. For brick, concrete, stone, or mortar, you need a special kind of beast: the concrete drill bit.

How to Spot One: The Tip is the Giveaway

A concrete drill bit (or 'masonry bit') looks different from your standard timber or metal bit. The biggest giveaway is the tip. Instead of being twisted to a sharp point, a masonry bit has a chunky, arrow-shaped head made of tungsten carbide.

This tip is incredibly hard. It's not designed to cut the material like a wood bit. It's designed to pulverise it.

The Golden Rule: You MUST Use the Hammer Function

This is the most important part, mate. A concrete drill bit is pretty useless on its own. It's designed to work as part of a team with a drill that has a hammer function.

When you switch your drill to the 'hammer' setting (it usually has a little hammer symbol on it), the drill doesn't just spin; it also smashes the drill bit forward hundreds of times a second. It's this high-speed jackhammering action that allows the carbide tip to chip, pulverise, and blast its way through the hard material.

Trying to use a concrete drill bit without the hammer function is like trying to chop down a gum tree with a butter knife – you'll be there all bloody day and get nowhere. (And never use the hammer function on timber, metal, or tiles!)

The Two Main Types of Concrete Drill Bit

You'll generally find two types of these bits, and they fit two different types of drills.

1. The Standard Masonry Bit (for Hammer Drills)

This is the one you'll find at any hardware store. It has a standard round or hex shank that fits in your normal cordless drill (as long as it has that hammer setting). It's a ripper for drilling holes in house bricks and mortar joints for jobs like hanging shelves, brackets, or picture hooks.

2. The SDS Bit (The Pro's Choice for Hard Yakka)

This is the heavy hitter. An SDS bit has a special slotted shank that locks into a Rotary Hammer Drill. A rotary hammer is a much gruntier tool that has a proper piston-driven hammer action.

An SDS bit is the non-negotiable choice for serious, hard yakka. This is the concrete drill bit you need for drilling into hard, reinforced concrete slabs or for any professional tradie work.

A Hole is Just the Start: The Professional Job

Knowing how to drill the hole is a ripper skill for any Aussie DIYer. But what you're putting in that hole is a whole different ball game.

If you're drilling a hole through that brick wall to run a new 240V circuit for an outdoor light or a power point in the shed, your DIY job stops the second the hole is drilled. In Australia, it is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician to do any fixed wiring.

A qualified professional will not only drill that hole safely, but they'll also have the right, compliant gear to run through it. A pro installer won't just grab their gear from the retail shelf; they get their supplies from a proper electrical wholesaler to ensure everything is trade-quality and meets Australian standards.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. They've got all the heavy-duty gear that gets installed in or on those concrete and brick walls, including the rigid, weatherproof conduits, the heavy-duty power points, junction boxes, and all the compliant cabling that a licensed professional needs to do the job right. For a job that's safe from start to finish, the pros use the right tools and the right components from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! If you've ever been on a serious reno or a proper worksite, you'll know that sometimes you need to make a big hole. We're not talking about a little hole for a screw; we're talking a fair dinkum, massive, clean hole right through a brick wall or a concrete slab to run pipes, conduit, or ventilation ducting.

Your standard masonry bit is just not going to cut it, mate. And a standard hole saw will be knackered in about five seconds flat. For this kind of hard yakka, you need to bring in the big guns. You need a core drill bit.

So, What is a Core Drill Bit, Exactly?

A core drill bit is a heavy-duty, hollow, cylindrical bit. Unlike a standard twist drill that chews up and pulverises all the material inside the hole, a core drill bit is much cleverer.

It works by only cutting a 'kerf' or a ring around the outside of the hole. This leaves a solid lump of material (the "core") in the middle, which you just knock out when you're done.

The Ripper Benefits: Why It's Better for Big Holes

This method of cutting is a total game-changer for a few key reasons:

• It's Way More Efficient: Your drill isn't wasting energy turning the entire hole into dust. It's only cutting the outline. This means you can cut a massive 100mm hole with a lot less effort and in a fraction of the time.
• It's a Cleaner Cut: It produces a much neater, schmick-looking, and more precise hole than trying to stitch-drill (drilling lots of little holes in a circle) like in the old days.
• It's Built for Hard Yakka: These bits are designed to chew through the toughest materials on an Aussie worksite.

The Two Main Types: TCT vs. Diamond

When you're looking for a core drill bit, you'll generally find two main types, and they're for different jobs.

1. TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) Core Drill

This is your heavy-duty brick buster. It has big, aggressive tungsten carbide teeth, just like on a high-end saw blade.

• Best for: Drilling into softer, abrasive materials like house bricks, concrete blocks, limestone, and sandstone.
• How to use it: You must use this with a grunty rotary hammer drill on the "rotary stop" (hammer/chisel only) or "rotary hammer" (hammer and spin) setting, depending on the bit.

2. Diamond Core Drill Bit

This is the ultimate heavy hitter. It doesn't have "teeth" – its cutting edge is a solid ring embedded with industrial-grade diamond grit.

• Best for: This is the only choice for drilling through hard, reinforced concrete, granite, and other super-dense stone or porcelain.
• How to use it: This is crucial, mate. A diamond core drill bit grinds, it doesn't chisel. You must use it with a dedicated core drill (or a heavy-duty rotary drill with the hammer function OFF).
• The Golden Rule: You must use water! This is called "wet drilling." The water cools the diamond segments (so they don't get knackered) and turns all that nasty concrete dust into a safe slurry.

This is a Serious Tool: A Pro's Job, 100%

Let's be dead clear. A core drill bit is a serious, professional-grade tool. It's not for hanging a picture, mate. These things are big, they need a ridiculously powerful drill to run them, and if they "bite" or snag on a bit of steel reinforcing, they have enough torque to just about rip your arm off.

And more importantly, the reason you're drilling a massive hole is almost always to install a critical service, like plumbing or 240V electrical wiring. In Australia, installing any fixed electrical wiring is absolutely not a DIY job. It is illegal, extremely dangerous, and must only be done by a licensed electrician.

A qualified professional will not only have the right, heavy-duty core drill to do the job safely, but they'll also have the right, compliant components to install in that hole. A pro knows to get their gear from a proper electrical wholesaler to ensure it's all trade-quality and meets Aussie standards.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the specialist core drill bit attachments that tradies need, to the heavy-duty, compliant electrical conduits, sub-mains cables, and weatherproof enclosures that get installed through those holes. For a job that's safe, compliant, and built to last from the core cut to the final connection, the pros rely on quality gear from a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the shed or on the worksite, you've got your drill or impact driver in hand, and you're ready to send a screw home. But you're fumbling around with those tiny, fiddly 1-inch screwdriver bits, trying to clamp them into the big drill chuck, only to have them fall out or get stuck. Or, you're trying to reach a screw that's just a bit too deep inside a cabinet.

It's a fair dinkum pain, mate. But there's a simple, cheap bit of kit that solves all these problems in one hit: the drill bit holder.

So, What is a Drill Bit Holder, Exactly?

A drill bit holder (also called a 'screwdriver bit holder' or 'bit extension') is the essential middle-man between your drill's chuck and your small screwdriver bits (like your Phillips, Torx, or Robertson bits).

It's a slender shaft that locks securely into your drill or impact driver's chuck. The other end has a hexagonal socket designed to hold those little screwdriver bits. It's one of the most-used accessories in any Aussie tool bag for a few bloody good reasons.

The Ripper Benefits: Why It's a Tradie's Best Mate

This humble tool isn't just about holding a bit; it's about making your whole job faster and easier.

• Magnetic Magic (Holds the Screw!): This is the big one. A good drill bit holder is magnetic. This not only holds the bit in place, but it magnetises the bit enough to hold the screw on the end. No more trying to balance a screw on the bit with one hand while holding your timber with the other. It's a proper lifesaver.
• Quick-Change Action: Instead of mucking around with the drill chuck every time you want to change from a Phillips head to a hex head, you leave the holder in the drill. You can then pop bits in and out in about two seconds flat. For a tradie on the clock, this saves a motza in time.
• It Gives You Reach: A standard drill bit holder acts as a handy 6-inch (or so) extension. This is an absolute godsend for getting into those tight, hard-to-reach spots that your bulky drill chuck can't get near.
• Secures Fiddly Little Bits: Let's be honest, those little 1-inch bits are a pain to lock into a drill chuck, and they often wobble. A holder gives them a solid, secure seat.

What to Look For: Impact Rated is the Go!

You'll see two main types on the shelf:

1. Standard Holders (Often Shiny Chrome): These are fine for your standard cordless drill bit and for light-duty jobs around the house, like putting together a flat pack.
2. Impact Rated Holders (Usually Black): This is the one the pros use. If you're using an impact driver, you must use an impact-rated drill bit holder. A standard (shiny) one is made of brittle steel and can shatter under the massive, sudden torque of an impact driver, sending bits flying. The impact-rated ones are made of tougher steel with a bit of flex (torsion) to handle the hard yakka.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

Using the right, high-quality tools, like a proper impact-rated drill bit holder, is the mark of a professional installer. It shows you're set up to do the job efficiently and safely.

A licensed electrician on a fit-out, for example, will swap bits dozens of times a day, from drilling a pilot hole to driving in a switch mechanism. They need gear that won't let them down. They also know that a professional job relies on the quality of the components they're installing. Sourcing this gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler is all part of the job.

As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the heavy-duty, impact-rated drill bit holder sets that tradies need, to the high-quality, compliant power points, switches, and enclosures that they're installing with those tools. For a job that's professional from the tool to the final fitting, the pros rely on a supplier like Schnap Electric.

G'day! You're in the shed, in the middle of a reno, and you need to run a 50mm pipe or a big bit of conduit through a timber stud. You look at your standard drill bit set, and the biggest one is 13mm. You're properly stuck, mate. Trying to make a big hole with a small bit is a recipe for a dog's breakfast.

For this kind of hard yakka, you need the right tool. You need a hole saw drill bit assembly.

What is a Hole Saw Drill Bit, Exactly?

Let's clear up the lingo. The term hole saw drill bit really refers to the complete setup that goes in your drill. It’s a clever, multi-part system that works as a team:

1. The Hole Saw (The 'Cup'): This is the big, round, cup-shaped blade with the teeth. This is what cuts your big, round hole.
2. The Arbor (or Mandrel): This is the shaft that locks into your drill's chuck and has a thread for the saw cup to screw onto.
3. The Pilot Drill Bit: This is the drill bit part of the hole saw drill bit assembly. It's a standard HSS twist bit that sits right in the centre of the arbor and sticks out past the saw teeth.

How Does it Work? (It's a Team Effort)

This is why it's so bloody effective. The pilot drill bit is the hero that goes in first. It drills a small, perfect centre hole that anchors the whole setup and stops the big saw cup from wandering all over your material.

Once that's anchored, you keep the drill steady, and the big saw cup spins around it. Its teeth then get to work cutting the clean, circular hole. When you're done, you're left with a perfect 'plug' of timber (or 'slug' of metal) stuck inside the saw. You beauty!

What to Look For: Choosing the Right Saw for the Job

A hole saw drill bit setup isn't a "one-size-fits-all" deal. The saw cup you use has to match the material you're cutting.

• Bi-Metal Hole Saws: This is your classic all-rounder, the one you'll find in most kits. It's a ripper for timber (pine, hardwood), plasterboard, plastics, and even thin sheet metal (like Colorbond). A tradie on any site will have a set of these.
• TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped): These are the heavy hitters, with tough-as-nails carbide teeth. They're for harder, more abrasive stuff like fibre cement sheeting, MDF, and thicker metals.
• Diamond Hole Saws: This is a whole different beast. It has no teeth, just diamond grit, and it's the only thing you should use to cut hard porcelain tiles or glass.

Pro-Tips for a Schmick Job

• Safety Glasses: Non-negotiable, mate. Cutting holes sends stuff flying.
• Slow & Steady: Don't run your drill at full pelt, especially on metal or with big diameter saws. A slower, steady speed lets the teeth cut, not just burn and get knackered.
• Clear the Chips: When drilling deep, pull the saw out every now and then to clear the dust and chips from the cut.
• Use Lube for Metal: If you're cutting steel, a bit of cutting fluid is a must. It keeps the saw cool, stops the teeth from dying, and gives you a much cleaner hole.

The CRITICAL Safety Warning: Cutting vs. Wiring

Righto, let's get dead serious. Using a hole saw drill bit to cut a 90mm hole in your ceiling for a new downlight is a job a very careful and confident DIYer might tackle (wearing a dust mask and glasses, and after checking for joists and cables!).

But the second that hole is cut, the DIY job is OVER.

The task of reaching into that hole, pulling down the 240V wiring, and connecting the new light fitting is 100% NOT A DIY JOB. In Australia, it is illegal and extremely dangerous for anyone other than a licensed electrician to do this work. A simple mistake can lead to a fatal shock or a house fire. Don't be a galah.

A Professional Job Needs Professional Gear

A qualified professional knows that cutting a clean hole is just the first step. The real job is about installing a high-quality, compliant fitting. They source their gear from a trusted electrical wholesaler to ensure everything is safe and built to last. As one of Australia's most comprehensive electrical wholesaler and supplier networks, Schnap Electric Products stocks the lot for the professional installer. From the professional-grade hole saw drill bit kits that tradies need, to the high-quality, IC-rated LED downlights, conduits, and cable glands that get installed into those perfectly cut holes. For a job that's safe, compliant, and looks schmick, the pros rely on quality tools and quality components from a supplier like Schnap Electric.